Chef Russell Smith spent more than a decade working for Wolfgang Puck, eventually taking over the kitchen at the Source. That Penn Quarter dining room closed during the pandemic, and Smith started messing around with pizza. Lucky us. His four-month-old Dupont restaurant slings marvelous pies with thin, crispy, flavorful crusts. (He uses a sourdough starter.) They’re New York–inspired, but more delicate than greasy, akin to what you’d find in a Greenwich Village pizzeria, not a stand in Penn Station. Toppings are thoughtful—Castelvetrano olives, roasted sweet onions—and the place proves that white pizza actually can be good. Just as impressive: artful starters, such as whipped feta with salsa verde and freshly baked focaccia, or mushroom conserva with lemony mascarpone.
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